I have written a number of tutorials on Deep Paint. It is one of my favorite programs. I use it as a stand-alone and import into it a bitmap file either in PSD, BMP, or TIF format. Sometimes I have discovered that a certain file in a certain format will have parts that cannot be opened in Deep Paint. If I just save the file in another format, one of the three mentioned above will work, it will import properly into Deep Paint. I use Deep Paint as a separate program because it is easier on memory. Deep Paint is memory intensive. Right Hemisphere states that in their manual by showing a chart of how much memory is needed according to the file size opened in Deep Paint. I have 1 gig of memory because in Photoshop I create very large files, and I, also, do animation. I generally use a file size of about 6 MB. With that size I never have to wait to complete a command. I have, also, found that I can reduce the dpi of a file from 300 to 150 and, upon completion of my project, resample it back to 300 dpi without any noticeable degredation in quality when I print on a home printer. I have not tried this using service bureau imagesetters.

Since I have written other tutorials on using Deep Paint that are available on my web site as well as on that of Right Hemisphere detailing beginning cloning and other rudimentary steps, I will not present basic steps for using Deep Paint here. Instead, please look at the other tutorials or refer to DeepPaint's manual on how to use basic tools.

This tutorial will show you the steps I used to create the Deep Paint Weeds and Water picture. I used the picture I created in "Image Manipulation Part 1."

I have included with this tutorial a zipped file of brushes that I have created. Click on the brush image to download the zipped file and then open it as you would any zipped file. The tool I used throughout was the "Deep Paint Cloning Tool," found on the "Tool Bar," unless otherwise noted. These brushes for cloning are to be used on any image of your choice. This tutorial outlines the steps I used to create this particular picture. Some of the sizes of the brushes are different than in the tutorial. Just change the size to match the tutorial or use the brush as it is.

I have included a view of each layer as I created it. To be more visible, the layer will appear on a white background instead of over the "Cloning Source" layer. To see the picture of the layers, move your mouse over the red button next to the different layers. To close the layer, click your mouse anywhere on that layer.

Step 1 I opened a BMP file from Photoshop of about 6 MB. I set it as my clone source with the opacity at about 50%. This is individualistic. I vary the opacity from about 40-65%.

The following illustration is a print screen of all the layers used to create the final image. When I finished the picture I changed the opacity of the "The Base Layer Clone Source" to 100%.

Step 2 - The Water Layer
The first layer I created was the water layer. This initially appeared immediately above the cloning layer. However, I moved it later so that the foliage layer was in back of the water layer and immediately above the cloning layer.

I created this layer with the WaterColor Squashed brush. I cloned over the small rocks and overlapped the edges of the other rocks. I made sure the entire area was covered. To do this, I reduced the opacity of the cloning layer to zero opacity. I could, also, have just clicked on the "eye" to the left of the name of the layer to make it invisible.

Step 3 - The Rock Layer
I created the rocks using the Smooth Round brush. I varied the size of it from size 14 to 20. I, also, used the Smooth Round Squashed Soft brush and varied it from size 12 to18. I angled it to follow the different parts of the rock. For example, when I did the top of the rock, I had the brush in a perpendicular position; when I did the front, for example, it was either in a vertical or diagonal position. For the large rocks in the background of the picture on the extreme left, after I cloned them, I took the Blur brush and using the "Paint Tool," I softened the rocks. I did split the rocks into two layers - the rock layer and the background rock layer. However, this was not necessary.

Rocks	Rocks on Far Left

Step 4 - The Upper Water Layer
The purpose of this layer was to make sure that the water appeared to be surrounding the rocks. I used the Watercolor brush at "15 x 15" to go over the edges of the rocks.

Step 5 - The Sky Layer
I used the Sky brush and varied the size from size15 to 30. Also, so it would appear relatively smooth, I stroked in all directions.

Step 6 - Cloud Layer
I used the Cloud brush and lightly went over the clouds that I wanted to have texture.

Step 7 - Background Foliage Layer
I used the Smooth Round brush set at a size of 25. I, then, moved the layer to directly above the "Base Clone Source Layer."

Step 8 - Foliage Details Layer
Once the background was worked in, I added the details that would protrude into the sky using the Smooth Squashed brush at size "10-15" and smaller and moved the sky layer in back of this layer.

Step 9 - Background Weeds Layer
I used Smooth Round Squashed brush in a vertical-diagonal position and made short strokes.

Step 10 - Weeds Details Layer
I used the Smooth Squashed brush to create a texture variation for the weeds.

Step 11 In this step, I cleaned up the picture. To do this, I lowered the opacity of the background layer and turned on and off other layers as necessary to see how well I had covered each layer. I used the Smooth Squashed brush to add cloning around rock areas, for example, that I had missed.

I, also, raised the opacity of the base layer to 100%. I could make any changes necessary when I exported it into Photoshop. I wanted the base layer depth of color to show through the other layers. In this picture, it didn't matter, but changing the opacity of the base layer can change how a final image will look, especially if the layers are merged in Deep Paint. They were not merged in this example.

Once in Photoshop, I resampled the image to a dpi of 300.

After I was satisfied with how the layers looked, I exported the file to Photoshop 5.5. As can be seen by the screen shot on the right, all the layers remained as they were in Deep Paint. I decided, for this tutorial, not to make any changes. However, since the layers are in place, I can make any changes I like.

If the changes from the first image to the last are not apparent, it is because of the small size and screen resolution setting. The changes made were somewhat subtle. If you click on the image below, a larger one can be seen, but it will take a little time to download.